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AMC Empire 25
234 W 42nd St
New York, NY 10036
Phone: (212) 398-3939
When it first opened in Times Square a couple years back, the AMC Empire 25 multiplex made a statement with its presence alone. Times Square, an area heretofore known for its fine dining and quiet, tight-knit community, was now home to a giant cinema, which would soon inspire the establishment of a similar bijou across the street, as well as the creation of a small commercial theater district on the nearly desolate Broad Way.
It was only a matter of months before tourists caught word of the goings on in Times Square, and by now, the area has easily surpassed the Garment District and Spanish Harlem as it climbs the list of trendy tourist hotspots.
But now, it is time for the AMC to put its money where its mouth is. Its stunning veneer of lights and more lights has attracted discriminating tourists and citizens alike, so now the critics have lined up to have their say. Everyone already knows the major facts: yes, this enormous 42nd St. hangout shows movies, up to 25 at a time. Yes, one film will occasionally show on more than one screen if prompted. Yes, there are bathrooms on almost every floor, sometimes with more than one stall in each. But how is the food??
The answer, dear readers, is: better than the average movie den grub, but not so much as to fulfill the promise of its extensive menu.
As a seasoned filmgoer, I am often inclined to doff my epicure's cap and indulge in a light supper of Sno-Caps and Diet Rite while watching the latest offering from Scorsese, Spielberg, or Hitchcock. But the AMC's menu (again adorned with those beautiful electric lights that attract passing pedestrians to its gates) dashed all my Sno-Capped dreams immediately with the promise of popcorn, cylindrical pretzels, and the addition of several classic entrees reimagined in the style of cinema cuisine.
The popped corn didn't disappoint, and was only improved upon by the golden topping, which was described to me by the concessíoníérré as containing melted-down frozen gold topping. A heaping plate of bullet pretzels was found to taste prettier to the eye than to the mouth, as each breadball's hard, leathery casing seemed to stretch to the very center of every bite.
I preferred the AMC Hot Dog, which nearly rivals those of 7-11 in sheer time spent on the spinny hot dog roller cooking thing. But the true surprise on the menu is the Grilled Chicken Sandwich. Only in newly renovated truck stops on Route 81 have I ever caught a glimpse of instant chicken, and I never dreamed that I'd live long enough to see this fascinating creation alongside Gummi Bears and Almond Joy Mini Bites at my local enormous megaplex. Though it is only about the size of a silver dollar, doesn't taste like chicken, and the AMC kitchen's lack of an oven or microwave casts serious doubt as to its origin, it remains a valiant effort.
Though the sandwich doesn't really taste like food, I'm sure that plans are in order to keep taking this entrée and the rest of the menu down new, exciting paths. What items will adorn the AMC's glowing menu in the seasons to come? Popcorn shrimp? Shrimp popcorn? Marshmallow burgers and molasses soup? One can only dream and barf.
Though its initial gastronomic efforts to date have been nauseating at best and vomit-inducing at worst, I remain excited to see what lies around the bend for this Times Square pioneer. Seeing as this restaurant also shows movies, I have decided to pay a small tribute by rating it according to the star scale occasionally used by film critics.
Rating: 1.5 Reese Witherspoons
- Jeff Solomon
